So you want to adopt a German Shepherd?

yes, they are ridiculously cute as pups, but also yes- they can grow very big indeed!

Our rescue will never leave a Shepherd dog in need on the side of the road or in a kill cage, whether an adult or a litter of pups. But while not everyone is cut out to be a Shepherd parent (and that’s fine! We have many other lovely dogs who also need homes, and we will advise on breed needs for them as well…) some people are just perfect as humans for a Shep!

To see if a Shepherd is the dog for you, read on…

Where are Shepherd type dogs from? Why were they bred? Are they an old or modern breed?

Like any other ‘pure’ breed, humans engineered these dogs to do very specific jobs for them- and in the case of Sheps: to be a herding or herd protecting dog (also known as a stock dog or working dog). They were bred, then trained according to breeding, in herding livestock in farm/rural environments. And, unsurprisingly, a dog specifically bred and trained to herd and/or guard sheep is known as a sheep dog or shepherd dog. Another term for this is ‘livestock guardian dog’.

All ‘herding’ behaviour is an adaptation of a wolf’s predatory behaviour, and all dogs came from breeding and domesticating wolves originally. Through this selective breeding; as well as reducing the size of these dogs to half the size of their wolf ancestors; humans have been able to minimise but not breed out (else they’d have no motivation to herd/ engage with such animals) the dog's natural inclination to treat cattle or sheep as prey while simultaneously maintaining or enhanced breeding the dog's hunting or guarding skills. These two traits combined create an effective herding dog. Each variation of herding dog has had different behaviours encouraged- while dogs like collies, heelers and corgis are trained to ‘nip’ the heels or feet of the animals they are herding, shepherds are ‘tending dogs’, who act as a ‘living fence’, both guarding and guiding large flocks of sheep to graze, while preventing them from eating valuable crops and wandering onto roads. As working dogs, they often lived with the sheep 24/7 outside, with the human shepherd and family in a hut, and one of their tricks was and is ‘hiding’ in or nearby a flock, ready to drive away ‘baddies’ like human thieves up to no good and animal predators.

These breeds of dog have existed for a very long time, since prehistoric times. Herding dogs seem to have originated in Western Asia, particularly in what we now call parts of the Middle East- Iran and Iraqi Kurdistan, which also includes parts of Turkey and Syria. 

The reason why they were bred was because humans had started to make settlements and cultivate the places they were living in. Humans also started domestication of animals like sheep and goats some time between the 11th and 7th millennium BCE- up to 13,000 years ago. When cultivating flocks of herbivorous (plant eating) animals for milk and meat first started, shepherding was a difficult job: the first shepherds did not have horses and managed their livestock on foot, as mules, horses and donkeys were not yet fully domesticated and obedient enough to help them travel faster and maintain the flocks. So it seemed like a natural progression that dogs, having already been domesticated and previously were helping humans to hunt, became assistants in farming. While it would have taken time to damp down the hunting instinct and make the dogs want to guard the ‘tasty’ livestock instead, such breeding and training was so successful that these types of dogs exist to this day. The main task of dogs in the early period was to protect herds from a variety of wild predators, which were very numerous at that time, such as lions, leopards, hyenas and the like.

This type of shepherd, shorter haired for hot climates, have been used in the hotter areas of the Middle East and Asia for thousands of years, also mentioned by the Romans and in the Bible as well (e.g. Book of Job).

A German Shepherd checklist

The best or most effective characters of herding dogs were that they had to be strong, big (often over 30kg as an adult), smart, courageous, protective, decisive, independent, able to stand alone against a large predator and, most importantly, ready to defend their herd (or human ‘family’). They need lots of ‘jobs’ (see below) for their physical and mental health. A Shepherd’s coat is thick, often double coated from being bred that way, and their ancestors needing the extra warmth as they lived outside even in winter. So they will need regular grooming, and are likely to shed a lot in a home, where the temperatures are warmer and more consistent. These traits will still exist even in Shepherds as pets, as they have been bred into them for so long. So if that’s the kind of dog that appeals to you most and you don’t mind the floof in your house- then yes, a Shepherd breed or mix is the dog for you!

even over the past 100 years, selective breeding has greatly changed the shape; especially the back end; of German Shepherds

What else should I take into account adopting a ‘pure’ bred Shepherd these days, or a Shep mix?

Never forget- these dogs were bred as working dogs for thousands of years, and need a very special family if they are to be pets. If not working dogs, more recently, they were bred to be show dogs, and compete in dog shows as prime examples of their breed. And we don’t often recommend guardian or herding breeds for first time adopters unless they are prepared to do a lot of work to ensure they know all about the breed and how to look after them properly according to need and breed (and this blog is written to help with that as everyone was a first time Shep adopter once!)

Sadly dogs bred for show are often a victim of unsympathetic breeding standards, or fashions, and Sheps are no exception. The show breed ‘need’ for a sloping back means ex or failed show dogs have awful back and hip issues all through their lives. So always have regular vet check ups of your Sheps’ backs, legs and hips!

These days German Shepherds are divided by some into three categories: ‘American’ GSD's (usually show dogs as often the ‘working’ aspect of this dog breed has been bred out due to the different/lax rules of the American Kennel Club preferring certain shapes and builds over others, and allowing different lines to interbreed), German (European) Show line dogs and German (European/Eastern European) working line dogs. This in Europe tends to simply mean certain breeding lines have proven to be generally more suitable as show dogs or pets, and other lines have consistently produced more ‘working’ dogs. But there are always exceptions in any breeding line and any that don’t fit ’type’ are not kept by the owners who have dogs for ‘shows’ for the most part.

Unlike working line dogs, where the ‘ideal’ dog is more general, or (for example,) colours are for camouflage (dogs that guard or herd sheep are often white, often with darker fur patches; and with cattle, goats or yaks, the dogs are usually grey or brown) show dogs have to look a certain way to be ‘accepted’ as the breed standard. This includes ‘accepted’ shapes, sizes, fur and eye colours. They also must have the temperament to be able to do very close lead work around a show ring; and, while doing this, tolerate a lot of other dogs and humans being around, as well as being examined all over by strangers (show judges.) And the ‘pure’ bred Sheps that end up in shelters may have also failed show dog training or not be the right ‘look’ or not fit the standard for showing. They can ‘fail’ as show dogs for something as simple as being the ‘wrong’ colour! Very light markings on chest or very pale colour on inside of legs are ‘allowed’ in show dogs, but deemed generally ‘undesirable’. The same goes for whitish nails, red-tipped tails or faded fur colours. So ‘blues’, ‘livers’, ‘albinos’, or whites (i.e. almost pure white dogs with black noses) and near whites highly ‘undesirable’ in show dog terms.

the colouring of the four dogs at the bottom of this graphic are not ‘accepted’ as breed standards by the American or British Kennel Clubs.

Always be on the look out for ‘rogue traders’ when thinking about getting a dog.  

Unethical or backyard breeders will breed these ‘failed’ dogs, or close relatives, and advertise them as ‘mini’, ’show’ or ‘working’ line dogs, and people will pay thousands, then end up with a dog whose parents couldn’t ‘work’ or ’show’. This could also mean the puppies have temperament issues as well as neurological and physical health issues which could be made worse by forcing a home life on them that is totally unsuitable, sold to anyone that has a few grand in the bank. Never ‘buy’ a dog that seems too good to be true, and always ask to see both parents in their usual environment as well as their vet records and proof of pedigree line. And ask yourself why you’re prepared to pay £1000s for a ‘pure’ dog that’s not blood tested, vaccinated or neutered, especially if it’s to avoid a house check or other vetting- as many breeders won’t house check or vet much. If they don’t check you out, ask yourself: why not? And always ensure they have back up for the dog and will take the dog back should the dog not be as they described in some way, or sick when you were told they were healthy.

a common breeding problem in bad breeding in many dogs including Shepherds is canine dwarfism (very short and weak legs) to find out more about this condition check this link http://siriusdog.com/osteochondrodysplasias-leg-deformities-dwarfism/

his applies to rescues as well! Some are ‘dog factories’, saving way too many dogs to get donations from well meaning people, with profit not care and welfare in mind. They cram them in filthy, stinking and noisy kennels- so have no idea of their actual health or temperament, so they have poor care or welfare, are not fed well and don’t get any time out of dirty kennels (with no blankets, beds or toys) or socialisation. Or they short cut on tests and vet visits/health checks to save money. Always ask to see vet records and a wide range of photos and videos of the dogs with other dogs, cats, and kids, on walks and learning skills, or playing with toys and the like. And ensure the dogs are fully blood tested, vaccinated and neutered if old enough. If adopting a puppy, it is your responsibility to get them neutered as well, and all good rescues will have neutering in their adoption contracts (unless there is a vet recorded medical exemption for neutering not to happen, usually due to old age) as well as Rescue Back Up. For more on RBU please check out our blog about it

And how do Shepherds end up at a rescue?

We can’t discount the possibility that a lot of dumped dogs of this breed will have failed ‘show dog’ training tests, or working tests, where dogs are introduced to livestock as puppies so they ‘imprint’- mostly by smell-on the animals (they feel a kinship to them, almost like part of their litter). This can begin, living with the herd, at 4 to 5 weeks of age! And of course for many dogs destined to be pets, this is way too young to be away from mum, as they won’t get good socialising, so good trainers won’t leave them out with the flocks, but supervise time with them, returning them to their mums afterwards till at least 8 weeks old, and continues without having to be with mum till 16 weeks of age. Training requires regular daily handling and management, preferably from birth. A guardian dog is not considered ‘reliable’ until it is at least 2 years of age, but many are dumped because even by 16 weeks, they are not cutting it as a herd dog. Repeated reinforcement of supervision, guidance, and correction are needed to teach the dog the skills and rules it needs to do its job. Having older dogs that assist in training younger dogs helps this process considerably.

And not all dogs ‘pass’ these tests, so they are not wanted on farms and can end up abandoned or in shelters, especially if their breeder is not ethical and won’t take the pups back, or the farmer bred them and doesn’t have or want ‘house dogs’ and working dogs. It is a sad fact that these dogs are often seen as ‘useless’ or ‘worthless’; when they can and often are much better as a pet instead.

A rescue Shep is unlikely to have any background information on who their parents are, but a good rescue will always ensure their vet checks for any physical issues typical of the breed before rehoming (unlike backyard breeders.) Some are abandoned for not being true to ‘standards’ or not liking or being scared of livestock, others are surrendered due to the colours not being what dog show judges and Kennel Clubs ‘like’, or other reasons they never state when surrendering the dogs to a shelter or just chucking them out to fend for themselves.

These Shepherd mix pups were thrown away in a bag at the side of the road, but we saved them. Sadly only Kye and Brooke survived, as some of the pups were dumped suffering from parvovirus, which because of its symptoms they would have known the pups were sick… so the rescue cared for them, got them all they needed to be healthy happy pups, good food, warm beds, socialising them with dogs, cats and kids, and teaching them how to walk, and so much more, before they go home forever. Kye ended up most ‘true’ to Shepherd ‘type’ in colouring and build, being the biggest pup. Brooke is the smallest pup, but the brown and black colouring is present in both dogs. Both have sweet natures thanks to tireless work to engage and socialise them, though Brooke is naturally the shyest, which is common in the smallest pup of a litter.

Some dogs can be subsequently dumped, not only if their size or colouring are nowhere near standard, but also from deliberate attempts to breed ‘mini’ versions of Sheps, if the backyard breeder think the breeding ‘experiment’ has failed. All breeds of dog started off with deliberately choosing which dogs should breed with which dogs, due to size, colour, nature/skills they learn easily and character, and more lately miniature versions of breeds have become more and more popular. But a lot of people do it with little knowledge as to the needs and weaknesses of the other breeds they are using, so using a reliable DNA test service could be a good idea, especially if your dog seems way off usual Shep looks or behaviours despite being a Shepherd mix. When a rescue dog is described as a Shepherd, this is usually what we call a ‘vet’s best guess’ based on appearance and years of experience with many breeds and mixes of dog.

Recently, there has been extensive breeding trying to create a Mini German Shepherd. An example of this, in the picture, is a dog that will only stand at 44cm max tall and weigh a maximum of 22kg; compared to the 60cm plus tall and average 35kg of a full size German Shepherd… not quite pocket-sized or ‘handbag’ sized, but this is how all ’new breeds’ are created! Any such breeding, if it ‘must’ happen should be ethical, responsible and only done by informed licensed breeders. Though not a ‘pure’ bred dog, this particular mini cross breed is a German shepherd mix with either a poodle or a Border Collie, creating a combination of a household and working pet.

But the quest is always on to create tiny or ‘cute’ versions of most bigger breeds, an unfortunate ‘fashion’ that never seems to die out… and greedy backyard breeders are cashing in on creating ‘mini’ versions of a lot of larger breeds, without proper knowledge of the breeds they are crossbreeding, and no research, welfare or legal controls every day. Then dumping the pups if they don’t look small enough or ‘pretty’ enough, or not sellable in some way to gullible, ignorant and foolish people wanting a puppy that will never become a large sized dog, or some kind of unusual and expensive ‘status symbol’ dog.

Sometimes a mixed Shepherd dog or litter will end up at our rescue simply because the owners couldn’t be bothered or can’t afford to neuter the mum. They had no wish or need for puppies, and will often dump mum and pups rather than look after them. Then it falls on the rescue to neuter the mum when she’s ready, and the pups when old enough, feed them, train them to walk and meet other dogs, even cats and kids, and get them toys, treats, beds, blankets and more, as much as time and funds allow. Then hope they find a home. This is what happened with mum Esme and her amazing pups, Kimo, Ivan, Piper and Sarai. Esme is a sweet and calm Collie mix but her pups are clearly part Shepherd, smaller than a Shep but with traits of both. Not a breeding experiment, but a failure to do duty of care for the mum and not spaying her.

Ivan ended up most ‘true’ to Shepherd ‘type’ in colouring and build, being the biggest pup. Kimo got the Shepherd fur but a narrower ‘Collie’ face like his mum. Piper ended up mostly white with Shepherd fur and Sarai is the smallest pup, looks just like her mum Esme, a Collie mix. All have lovely happy and confident natures thanks to tireless work to engage and socialise them, though Sarai is naturally the shyest, which is common in the smallest pup of a litter.

Akemi is definitely a typical German Shepherd ’type’ in size and ‘desirable’ colouring for the breed, though her narrower face suggests she could possibly be a mix of larger breed or other Shepherd type dogs. Shepherds can be maternal to the point of being overprotective with puppies, as they can think their pups are like their own flock or pack, though Akemi just wants to play with pups and small dogs.

So lack of success as a ’new breed’(pups are too big, or too black or the ‘wrong’ colour, or both), ‘accidental’ pregnancy, as a ‘show’ dog, or a ‘working’ dog often results in them being surrendered or abandoned in the first place, or the dog simply wasn’t wanted any more, so it’s not like you have to have a sheep farm or go to dog shows to successfully adopt a Shepherd breed. We do not adopt ANY dogs to be working dogs or guard dogs, only pets living indoors; and NEVER living outside in a kennel (and sometimes as potential Emotional Support Animals but only with appropriate advice and referrals to ESA organisations that can help you and them, and on the understanding the dog is not to be surrendered if they can’t or don’t do ESA training, as our dogs are always primarily pets), however, for this reason: we cannot guarantee they’d ever be able to do the ‘job’ of their breed; whether ‘working’ or ‘show’ line; and have no way to ‘test’ them to see if they could, being a rescue. But even in a dog that does not want to work, or would not do well working on a farm, they will need certain things/job every day for their physical and mental stimulation and entertainment. We do register dogs’ chips with the British Kennel Club, but the dogs do not have pedigree certificates, and are always neutered, so you would have to contact the Kennel Club for advice on eligibility to attend dog shows, and ensure the dog had the skills and temperament, with a lot of training using positive reinforcement (see our blog on this for more info) to try participating in dog shows, for fun (like Scruffs) or breed related dog shows. And we have successfully rehomed a lot of German Shepherds and Shepherd mixes over the years.

How do I keep a Shepherd happy and engaged? What ‘jobs’ they usually thrive doing in the home, out on walks, and more?

Jobs most Shepherds will love

Of course if they are a mix, their other breed needs to be taken into account and used as well, but generally most Sheps and other guarding/herding breeds love to do the following, especially when allied with cue words and tones to help them know it’s time to do the activity:

Walks

Most Shepherds love a walk, and a long one at that, every day! But build up slowly to long walks, every 3 days or so, then more often if they do well on the walks, where they can experience a lot of smells and different environments. Overwalking any dog, including and especially puppies who are still growing, can do more harm than good. We have an excellent blog on walks, and how dogs see them here.

Fetch

German shepherds have a high prey drive due to breeding by humans and most love to play fetch. Playing fetch can be good because it burns off a lot of pent up energy. You don’t have to use the same toys every time, or you can use favourite toys as they will see that engagement as a higher reward activity. Other options are treat stuffed toys, soft dog Frisbees that won’t shatter on catching them, and toys that make a noise, or bounce and tumble in unexpected directions like Kongs and ‘rugby’ shaped balls. However, please see our fetch blog on some advisories, especially with Shepherds’ hip, leg and back issues they can have.

Hide and Seek

Like the name implies, you hide a toy and your dog finds it. Or you can be the ‘toy’ and hide yourself, or be part of the reward when your dog finds you or the actual toy- as suggested in the ‘search and rescue’ task below. (For more on how to be a ‘toy’ for you dog check out this blog) German Shepherds have 225 scent receptors so they are naturally good at this game; and they like all dogs are also attracted to new and interesting smells so that can be incorporated too when you hide from them. Inventing a cue like ‘search’ ‘track’ or ‘find’ (it/me) to reinforce it as they learn will also help them respond to you and your words and tone. It is especially good for dogs that can’t engage in high impact activities like fetch for whatever reason. Reward the dog by throwing the toy a short distance or in the air for them to catch, or engaging with the toy the way your dog likes best, then hide it again.

Use a ‘Flirt Pole’

German shepherds often love to chase so attaching a soft piece of fabric or toy to the end of a flirt pole that you wave while they give chase to their ‘prey’ is a fun way to burn off extra energy. It’s an excellent activity for when you can’t get a long walk in and the opposite is also true – it can help burn off excited energy (also called ‘eustress’, see our stress blogs for more on this here, and here) before going on a walk.

Urban Agility

Urban agility, or dog parkour, is a noncompetitive fun sport that can accommodate nearly all dogs. Ensure no training starts until they are at least six months old, and starting at a very low level, as their bones and soft tissues are still growing and developing. You simply set up an obstacle course and balancing equipment in the yard/garden and train your dog to weave, jump, balance, and more. (Again with caution due to hip and spine weaknesses that can be in the breed.) There are urban agility trainers all over the UK, books, articles like this one, and YouTube videos like this one to give you ideas on what your dog might enjoy.

Tug

Teach your dog to tug can be a mixture of tugging enthusiastically, releasing the tug toy, and bringing the tug back after you release it. Tug should be fun and exciting (but not too exciting, else they can trigger stack) for both owner and dog and it can be used for many different jobs- as a training tool, to burn off energy, as a reward, or just for fun. The internet is full of tug toys of all sizes, shapes and weights, but check the reviews for safety and durability. And our toy blogs are full of useful help and advice on how to engage with toys with your dog here, and here.

Search and Rescue

This game reinforces the stay command and also challenges your dog. It can be used an extension of the ‘hide and seek’ job. Your dog stays while you hide, then released to ‘rescue’ you. This game works well with more than one person who can help the dog stay put while you hide, or when multiple people hide.
 

Step 1: Have one person hold the dog in one room while another hides in a nearby, visible location. As the job progresses, they are more likely to stay put on cue, and the hiding places can become less and less obvious.

Step 2: Once hidden, the hider can call the dog's name. Release the dog with a cue like ‘find’ or ‘seek’

Step 3: When the dog finds the person, reward them with praise and treats with happy light tones.

Nosework

Teach your dog to find objects, food, or scents (using dog safe diluted essential oils) by smelling them out. Obviously food and treats is an easier for them, but once they get the hang of the game, you can make it more difficult and harness your dog’s natural desire to hunt down scents by hiding cotton balls that contain a scent, but never use scents like clove ( which can central nervous system and cause liver injury) or eucalyptus oil, which is poisonous to dogs.
 

Myrrh (also an antiseptic), Frankincense (also for joint skin health/anxiety), Chamomile (also good for stomachs), Lavender oil (also for nerves), Ginger (also good for the immune system), and Rosemary (also for brain/eye function) usually used topically (on the skin) rather than eaten, diluted with water or coconut oil can work for dogs, though Rosemary is not advised for dogs prone to seizures. Use one part or drop of essential oil with from 10 parts to up to 50 parts water or ‘carrier’ oil such as coconut. They’ll still be able to smell it, and at those rates of dilution, there will be no bad effects should your dog eat it. But the idea is for them to find the origin of the scent or treat. Letting them eat it, given to them by you, is the reward for finding it, not just letting them eat it as soon as they find it. And on scent work, have a separate treat ready as a reward for following the scent trail. 

As your dog gains more confidence and skill, you can hide the scents in more challenging locations. You can learn more about this in our blog on nose training and canine consent, and this breed need in Shepherds is another reason why they often make very good police and service dogs, along with their instinct or breeding to find people or animals by scent.

Stack the Rings

If you’re looking for something extra challenging for a super smart pup who gets bored a lot (and bored dogs are experts at destruction in the house!) that can also be played indoors, teaching your dog to stack rings uses a lot of physical and mental energy as well as requires patience on your part. This game is super rewarding because it is very mentally challenging. You can watch how it’s done here.

Pick Up Time

You can teach your dog to pick up nearly any toy and drop it into any basket or box. This game is also useful for teaching your dog to pick up their own toys or other objects on command. Relatively easy to learn, but can be hard to reinforce and get them to repeat it, if they get overexcited, this game is immediately rewarding and can continuously switch up as you teach your dog to pick up and put away new things. Patience on your part, and allying cue words would really help here, keeping it simple, such as ‘toys home’, ‘tidy time’, ‘end play’, ‘pick up’ or ‘clean up’.

They may not get it right first time!

And don’t worry if they don’t want to, or are slow to pick up any of these jobs. Our toy blogs give lots of advice on how to engage with your dog no matter what the breed (mix.)

While we usually focus on saving German Shepherds at our rescue due to years of experience with the breed, as well as being a black dog rescue, there are many types of shepherds, and we have also rehomed Bucovina Shepherd mixes and Collie and other herding dog mixes (see our Collie blog) in the past.

Types of Shepherds today Livestock Guardian Breeds

Herding dog breeds

And if after reading this blog, and the extra links below, you think a Shepherd dog is still for you, check out our dogs for adoption, then get in touch with the applications team.

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MORE READING

Background, care, training and conditions prevalent in German Shepherds with links to other herding breeds https://www.borrowmydoggy.com/doggypedia/dog-breed-guides-german-shepherd#:~:text=German%20Shepherds%20are%20an%20active,interactive%20games%20or%20training%20sessions

For more on Shepherds as police dogs https://www.college.police.uk/article/new-guidance-police-dogs

For more on what happened with ‘American’ Shepherd dogs and why https://leerburg.com/germblod.htm

Dog safe essential oils, and which ones never to use https://www.petmd.com/dog/general-health/are-essential-oils-safe-for-dogs

For more on what the British Kennel Club consider to be a ‘German Shepherds’ https://www.thekennelclub.org.uk/breed-standards/pastoral/german-shepherd-dog/

More on how to teach ‘search and rescue’ with your dog https://specialtydogtraining.com/articles/teaching-your-dog-to-play-hide-and-seek-a-fun-indoor-activity/

More info on some of the many Shepherd breeds that currently exist https://worldanimalfoundation.org/dogs/shepherd-dog-breeds/